Doi Chaang Coffee: The Fairest of Them All?

There's nothing more comforting than a good cuppa java. It is especially enjoyable when you have the satisfaction of knowing you are drinking organic coffee, or better, Fair Trade Organic Coffee. But what does that all really mean? "Fair Trade" and "Organic" are terms we'd like to think we understand but when it comes down to it, most of us don't know anything beyond what the product packaging tells us. Then there are the beans. Coffee is every bit as complex as wine. The bean type, sun exposure, altitude, atmosphere and growing conditions are all factors in determining the quality and taste.

I recently got a bit of a coffee education from my neighbor, Collen Baker, who has gotten involved doing business development for an organic Coffee company.  Knowing my weakness for a stiff iced Americano, she sat me down at a local cafe one afternoon to tell me the story of Doi Chaang, an organic Arabica bean coffee cooperative in Northern Thailand with an unprecedented financial arrangement with two Canadian Businessmen.

Vancouverites John Darch and Wayne Fallis made their fortunes in natural resources before stumbling into the coffee business and meeting the Akha hillside tribe of Doi Chaang, an 800 family Co-op in Northern Thailand. The tribe was already growing coffee and the two Canadians believed in the product and the people enough to strike an unusually generous bargain. Rather than taking soul ownership and getting the beans at the cheapest price possible, Darch and Fallis made the tribe owners in the business.  The farmers own 100% of their growing and processing operations in Thailand in addition to 50% of a Canadian based corporation that has been created to provide funding and business expertise to enable the coffee to be introduced to the world market.  It is extremely rare if not unheard of for a coffee company to be grower owned, from crop cultivation to store shelves.

Like a fine wine, the coffee grown at Doi Chaang is an art form. Unlike cheaper Robustica beans, which are grown at lower altitudes, exposed to the sun for accelerated growth, Doi Chaang's Arabica beans are carefully shade grown in high altitudes for 4 years. That means the coffee cherry takes a longer time to grow while the beans absorb the fragrance from neighboring pear, cherry and macadamia nut trees. The slow growth ensures the absorption of all of the minerals and flavours, resulting in a berry that is naturally very low in caffeine with a complex flavour. The beans are hand picked, sun dried and fresh spring water washed, giving it an artisanal quality that would not be possible with machinery.

Intrigued with this generous coffee concept, I immediately ground a small portion of the beans to make my first espresso - the best way to properly experience the complexities of a quality coffee. Light yet complex, intensely fragrant and smooth, there were indeed hints of fruity undertones! The first cup went down too quickly. I wanted another. And another. It took me and husband about 3 days to polish off the half pound.

I had to know more. Why would these businessmen make such a generous 50-50 deal when they could have done the conventional fair trade route and still come out as heros?

"It was a genuine desire to see these people stand on their feet and have something for their children for the future, " says Baker. "The hillside folks have historically been neglected and uncared for.  This initiative has enabled them to have sewage and fresh water. They now have a school and a medical facility through all of this."

What a revolutionary concept: help those in poorer countries rather than exploiting them just because we can get away with it.

I was recently at a wine tour in Niagara where the tour guide proudly announced that they, "bring Mexicans in to pick the grapes at harvest" because, "no Canadian would ever agree to work for that little." While everyone else awkwardly looked at their shoes, I sputtered, "What?? That's horrible!"

"They like it!" She assured the group defensively. "It's more money than they would ever make at home and they get free accommodations."

Still if it's too little for a Canadian, why is it acceptable for anyone else?

The next time you sip on your favorite vanilla no foam latte, consider this: The vast majority of coffee we buy comes from producers who are paid about 54 cents for a pound of beans.  Most Fair Trade farmers get about $1.25 per pound of coffee, but the Doi Chaang farmers get at least 50% more than that.  Could this be the fairest Fair Trade of them all?  I don't know about you,  but I'd rather sip on that.

Doi Chaang coffee retails for $9.99 per half pound and is available at a number of stores in Toronto including Pusateri's & Summerhill Market in addition to a number of fine retailers across the country and online.

www.doichaangcoffee.com