European Fashion Weeks F/W 2010: London, Paris, Milan
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Sunday March 14, 2010
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The Fall/Winter international shows have wrapped, and the message couldn’t be clearer – the lines have been drawn between high drama and chic minimalism, and no fence sitting allowed. The number one trend coming out of Europe this season is Goth. Runways were swathed in dark velvet, lace, and leather. Silhouettes were long and lean with cinched waists, and black once again is the new black.
For gothic inspiration, look to the shows of Aquascutum, Lanvin, Haider Ackermann, Hermès, and Ann Demeulemeester.
This season it seemed almost every designer stepped it up a notch, and previewed highly dramatic, almost conceptual, coats. To stay on trend, shop for outwear that could be mistaken for art.
Most of the examples of dramatic outerwear came part in parcel with another of this season’s top trends, Animal Embellishments. Coats were crafted from a variety of exotic furs, pelts, and plume. Imagination ran wild at Alberta Ferretti, Bottega Veneta, Gucci, Yohji Yamamoto, Balmain, Chanel, Valentino, and Lanvin.
Although Minimalism was a trend stitched throughout the Paris shows, some of the best examples of this being the collections of Stella McCartney and Chloé, Anti-Minimalism was an emerging and defiant trend this season, best exemplified by Balmain’s metallic mini dresses and Emilio Pucci high drama looks.
Rounding out the international trends, London featured shows heavily inspired by nature, like Charles Anastase’s ‘Winter Garden’, Erdem’s pretty floral prints, Vivienne Westwood Red Label’s praise to Mother Earth t-shirts, and Pringle of Scotland’s fisherman knits and hip-waders.
Lingerie played heavily in the shows of Dolce & Gabbana and Christian Dior. And intermingling of distinct tribes was a theme throughout Rick Owens’ and Missoni’s collections.
by Heather Loney
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